Start Planting Your Future
Variety
Whitetail Crabs propagates varieties on large cold hardy rootstock, producing a large tree. A strong crab or apple variety for whitetails is directly related to apple fruit volume and drop periods. We recommend planting a higher percentage (approx. 70%) of our top three trees: 30-06, Crossbow and Droptine, along side a lower percentage of others trees we offer, in order to attract a diversity of wildlife.
“The hardy orchard has unity in variety.”
Sunlight
Apple/crabapple trees prefer full sunlight for rapid growth, dense crowning, and maximum fruit density. However, crabapple selections will often see more growth and cropping than apple trees in lightly shaded or sparse wooded areas.
“Some old fashioned things like fresh air and sunshine are hard to beat.”
Planting
When planting your trees, holes should be dug to allow sufficient room for root mass dispersal. Place the root system in the hole and spread the roots naturally outward from the taproot. If additional soil is needed after removing larger volumes of rock, the nearby natural native top soil (A-horizon) can be used. Slowly backfill in layers until the rootstock’s bud union is only an inch or so above the ground. Firm up the soil to discourage moles/voles from burrowing. It is not recommended to backfill holes with organic soils/compost. Moles and especially voles in northern most states will find the soft organic soils attractive for burrowing, especially during the winter months.
Watering
Watering trees should be done immediately after planting. A 5-gallon bucket should be slowly poured around the base of the tree weekly during dry periods, or as needed, or as water sources allow. If your water sources are limited, the most important thing is getting the trees in the ground by early spring in order to take advantage of the colder, rainy periods before summer. Mulching/weed barriers can be very beneficial in helping to retain moisture equilibrium, allowing for minimal watering (i.e. 1/2-gallon), even during drier periods. Moisture equilibrium plays a major role in retaining fertilizer uptake to the tree. This can result in yellowing/burning of leaf edges and new top growth during periods when the ground starts to become ‘bone dry’.
Fertilizer
The initial fertilization will help develop a strong, deep root system. A good quality commercial fertilizer/slow release fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, is typically recommended DIRECTLY AFTER planting. Fertilizer should never be added directly to the hole during the original planting, but should be spread on an approximate 2-3 foot radius around the tree and away from contact with the trunk in order to prevent any possible trunk burning. If you DO have regular access to the tree, the recommended rate for the first three years is 2.5 ounces in each early Spring and 2.5 ounces in each late spring. If you DO NOT have regular access to the tree, the recommended rate for the first three years is 5 ounces (approx. 2/3 cup) of fertilizer during each spring.
Whitetail Protection
Initial protection from whitetail browsing is needed in most areas until trees begin to mature. Even minor browsing on newly established trees can set growth pattens back for many years. Fencing around individual trees or around entire larger patches of trees is highly recommended in comparison to deterrent sprays. We suggest a minimum fence of 5-foot in diameter and 5-foot in height. This prevents larger whitetails from leaning in to browse. In addition, we offer 6-foot grow tubes on our ‘Supplies’ page and such tubes can be easily cut down. In northern areas, it’s recommended that tubes be placed at least several inches below the ground and gravel should be added around the base of the tube in order to prevent rodent burrowing to the roots and trunk.
Rodent Protection
Rodents can be a problem during the winter months or in areas where grass/herbaceous growth is not maintained. Several measures can be taken to ensure protection. The most common method is using conventional plastic tree wrap around the trunk. Plastic tree wraps are cost effective, quick, and sufficient in most locations. If you are still finding rodent damage on the trunk or root system after conventional tree wraps, a second more permanent method is to establish a 24-inch tall x 8-inch in diameter fence (typically around 1/4 to 1/2 inch screen holes) around the base of the tree. This type of fencing is common at most hardware stores. We recommend installing the fence 3-4 inches into the ground and then staking the fence and tying wire through the fence and around each stake so that the fence does not ride up.
As an added measure of protection in high rodent areas, several inches of gravel can be placed inside the screen and around the base of each tree at a minimum 2-foot diameter.